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A Designer Who Got Her Discipline From Dance

  • August 11, 2020

And so, while Moscone’s collections often read as minimalist in form, she considers them maximalist when it comes to quality and craft. The brand’s tailoring is hand-constructed, the fabrics — from sumptuous silks to supple cashmere knits — are luxurious, and each season there is always an element of handcraft, such as embroidery, delicate lace inlay or, as shown in her recent resort collection, weaving. “Fabric is always a starting point for me: I know what texture I want the hand to feel, and then I build silhouettes from there,” says Moscone, who typically produces all of her textiles in Italy, at mills near Como and Florence. This spring, though, when the country was ravaged by Covid-19, she was forced to rethink her production plan. When New York, too, issued a stay-at-home order, she decided to set up a loom in her Manhattan living room. Using leftover yarns and fabric scraps from past seasons — including strips of silk wool, silk jersey and crepe — Moscone developed many of her own unique textiles, and she temporarily redirected her team to produce hundreds of protective cotton face masks for New York hospitals. This hands-on approach is not new to her: Last year, Moscone installed an inflatable pool in her apartment so that she could marble the silks that would later appear in her resort and spring 2020 collections as ivory-hued bias-cut dresses patterned with earthy, abstract swirls.

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