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Even Harry Styles in Jorts Can’t Save Gucci’s Mini-Series

  • November 22, 2020

Mr. Van Sant has an incredible filmography, but of all his movies, “Ouverture” has most in common with what The Ringer once called Mr. Van Sants’ “Sea of Trees” — that is, “a Hallmark card that thinks it’s a haiku.”

Essentially the story of a day in the life of Ms. Calderoni, a magnetic performer who erases the whole concept of gender, the film follows her from the time she wakes in a gorgeous old apartment with a random assortment of roommates through her journeys in Rome: to a cafe full of happy grooving people (including an inexplicably naked pair), a post office, a dance rehearsal of the Sasha Waltz troupe, some neighbor-peeping, vintage shopping (actually Gucci shopping, which often looks one and the same) and an evening visit to a friend. As such, it is both pedantic and surreal. Also pedantically surreal.

Silvia’s world is populated by Mr. Michele’s friends — in marketing parlance often referred to as “friends of the house” — who come in all different ages, shades, shapes, gender identities and levels of global fame. All of them have been dressed willy-nilly by Mr. Michele in the new collection: 97 looks of classic Gucci muchness, accessorized to the hilt. Mr. Michele has never bought into that whole “elegance is refusal” thing.

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