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London, Fashion and the Importance of Being … Something

  • September 22, 2021

How, then, to nurture and encourage the next generation of designers? Names like Ms. Dojaka, whose confident and sexy creations neatly encapsulate many young women’s desire to show off their bodies after months at home. Or Supriya Lele, an LVMH prize finalist, who plays with concepts of revelation and concealment through asymmetrical shapes and bare skin.

The British accessories house Mulberry decided to celebrate its 50th anniversary by asking members of the new guard to reimagine some staple handbag styles while also giving them the freedom to develop fresh ideas. After working with Priya Ahluwalia and Nicholas Daley, the brand’s current collaboration was with Richard Malone, who draped a jewel-toned exploration of Irish craft heritage on models who stalked through galleries of Renaissance treasures at the Victoria and Albert Museum.

But perhaps another, wider, industry shift in attitude is also required: a genuine acceptance of digital showcases alongside physical catwalks as a means of seeing new fashion. It may be a complicated transition for those used to absorbing the theater and spectacle of the runway, or eyeing fit and fabric up close. But live shows are a great financial and emotional pressure on designers, a fact widely acknowledged even before the pandemic. If brands’ survival is a priority for the sector, habits will need to evolve.

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