That this happened when the industry has been riven and confronted by its own history of racism can seem too little, too late, especially given that Mr. Jean-Raymond, Mr. Clemens and Mr. Rogers are familiar names in the nominee categories and that other talented Black designers are still waiting for their turn at the table. But it’s a start.
And while the absence of all of the winners from the current fashion week, along with most of the big international names (Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Tory Burch, Oscar de la Renta, Marc Jacobs), may at first seem a sign of disaster, it also opened the door for smaller, independent brands to rise to the fore — both new names and ones that have been, perhaps, too long overlooked.
Hello, Hanako Maeda, whose Adeam collection marries Zen, work wear and multifunctionality with meditation and a certain forward momentum. Nice to see you, Alabama Chanin, and your organic, locally sourced haute homespun not-quite-basics again, splashed as they are with the ghosts of flowers past.
Article source: https://www.nytimes.com/2020/09/16/style/new-york-fashion-week.html