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The Chloé Girl Has Grown Up — And Grown a Social Conscience

  • March 03, 2021

A figure emerges from the Brasserie Lipp, the famous old Parisian restaurant where Apollinaire and Cocteau once dined, striding onto the cobblestones of a dimly lit, deserted street in the protective embrace of a striped knit. It is half poncho, half puffer, with the sweep of a Musketeers cape. Caught on film, she is serving not croque-madame, but rather notice to the world: There’s a new Chloé girl in town.

Yes, that mythic fashion creature who has been through more designer reinventions than Madonna is being reinvented once again.

Created by Gaby Aghion in 1952, the Chloé girl romped in the Provençal flower fields thanks to Karl Lagerfeld, went a little more risqué under Martine Sitbon, became Lolita-ironic under Stella McCartney, and turned baby-doll cool via Phoebe Philo. She was somewhat confused in the hands of Paulo Melim Andersson and Hannah MacGibbon, relaxed and accessible with Clare Waight Keller, and edgily bohemian under Natacha Ramsay-Levi.

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